The Black Hills region, located in southwestern South Dakota just south of I-90 and Rapid City, is rich with natural beauty and iconic landmarks. Highlights such as Mount Rushmore, Crazy Horse Memorial, and Wind Cave National Park make it a destination well worth visiting. With over 100 hiking trails to choose from, however, deciding which one to tackle can be a challenge.
One of the best trails in the area is the Hell Canyon Trail in Black Hills National Forest, located on the western edge of Jewel Cave National Monument. It’s one of my personal favorites thanks to its stunning views, varied terrain, and convenient proximity to ample lodging options in Custer, South Dakota—which I’ll cover at the end of the article.
The Hell Canyon Trail is a moderately difficult 5.3-mile loop that leads you through the canyon’s interior before climbing to the rim, which you then follow for about one to two miles, offering expansive views along the way.
It’s worth noting that there is no entrance fee to hike this trail, and it’s dog-friendly as long as your pet remains on a leash.
I hiked this trail in late spring of 2025 and opted to go counterclockwise, starting with a walk through the interior of the canyon. From the trailhead parking lot, you can choose either direction—clockwise or counterclockwise. By going counterclockwise, as I did, I began with the flatter section of trail that leads to the gated entrance, visible in the photo on the right below.
If you go clockwise, you’ll tackle most of the elevation gain right away, walking along the canyon’s edge before descending into the canyon and making your way back through it to the parking lot. The clockwise route starts at the large sign seen in the image on the left below. Attached to this sign is a box with free trail information pamphlets, which can be seen in the photo above. These pamphlets include all the essential details about the trail, such as length, elevation gain, and a general trail description.
When Should You Start Hiking?
The parking lot at the trailhead is relatively small, with space for about 10 vehicles. Since there are no alternate access points to the trail, it’s important to consider the limited parking when planning your hike. Arriving early is recommended, especially during peak times. Additionally, keep in mind that the trail is very sun-exposed, so be prepared for the heat.
The images below were taken from the first two miles of the hike, as you make your way through the interior to the canyon. This section of the trail is the most wooded, offering some relief from the sun as the canyon walls provide shade in the morning. The trail alternates between wide, open canyon valleys and tighter, more wooded sections, offering a dynamic and scenic hiking experience.
While hiking in the interior of the canyon, the slight incline made it feel like a simple stroll. Over the course of this 2-mile section, you gain about 200 feet of elevation, but the gradual ascent makes it barely noticeable.
By hiking the trail counterclockwise, there’s only one truly challenging section. This happens when the interior canyon trail curves sharply left, then abruptly heads up the side of the canyon, becoming much steeper. At this point you are backtracking the direction you came, but now on a steeper course, with significant elevation gain. You can see this section on the Strava elevation map provided in this article, starting at the 4km mark. In this part, you’ll quickly climb up about 50 feet over a short distance. Afterward, the elevation shifts more frequently, making the trail along the rim significantly more intense than the interior sections.
The rim section of the trail often runs near steep drops, so extra caution is advised here. Additionally, this portion of the hike is nearly fully exposed to the sun, so no matter the season, be sure to take appropriate sun protection measures, such as applying sunscreen, wearing long sleeves, and a hat.
The best part of this course for me is being able to see the lower canyon trail from along the rim.
Which Direction Should I take to Hike this Course?
I recommend hiking the Hell Canyon Trail in a counterclockwise direction, as I did. The rim half of the hike is especially impressive, and starting through the valley makes the trail feel more approachable and saves the best views for later in the day. The canyon walls seem to grow more dramatic as you make your way through the valley, and when you reach the rim, the landscape really open up.
Don’t miss the additional Scenic Overlook!
Hell Canyon Trail is also known as Trail #32, though this designation isn’t especially relevant for most hikers, as it doesn’t intersect with any other trails along the route.
Shortly after a steep climb from the parking area, the trail briefly intersects with a forest road. For a short stretch—about a couple hundred feet—the trail follows this road. At the point of intersection, you can take a short detour of roughly 100 feet along the road to reach an additional scenic overlook. This viewpoint is marked on both the official park map and most digital trail maps. Following the arrows on the posts marked with “32” will keep you on the official trail, bypassing the scenic overlook.
Recommended Lodging in Custer, South Dakota
Just a short drive from the Hell Canyon Trailhead, the small, charming town of Custer, South Dakota is the most convenient and comfortable place to stay if you’re planning to hike this scenic loop in Black Hills National Forest. With its welcoming atmosphere, a variety of lodging options, and easy access to other top trails and landmarks, Custer makes the perfect home base for a hiking-focused getaway.
💰 Budget-Friendly Hotels
Super 8 by Wyndham Custer/Crazy Horse Area
A reliable and affordable option featuring an indoor pool, hot tub, free Wi-Fi, and complimentary breakfast. Conveniently located near downtown Custer and major attractions like Mount Rushmore and Jewel Cave National Monument.
Econo Lodge – Downtown Custer
This award-winning, seasonal hotel offers free Wi-Fi, parking, and breakfast. It’s within walking distance to shops, restaurants, and bars, and provides easy access to Custer State Park and Crazy Horse Memorial.
🏡 Charming & Quaint Stays
Chalet Motel
A vintage, locally owned motel since 1938, offering cozy rooms with private bathrooms, air conditioning, and free Wi-Fi. Located near downtown Custer, it’s a short walk to restaurants and shops.
Rock Crest Lodge & Cabins
Nestled on 10 acres bordering the Black Hills National Forest, this lodge offers a range of accommodations from lodge rooms to cabins with fireplaces and full kitchens. Amenities include a seasonal outdoor pool, hot tub, picnic area, and free Wi-Fi.
🌲 Unique & Cozy Retreats
Buffalo Canvas Tent
Experience glamping in a 168-square-foot canvas tent equipped with a king-size bed, electric fireplace, beverage fridge, microwave, and Keurig. Enjoy high-speed fiber internet and serene views of the Black Hills National Forest.
Blue Jay Outpost
A modern micro cabin featuring a queen-size bed, beverage fridge, microwave, electric fireplace, and roof-mounted AC. Note: there is no Wi-Fi or cell service, offering a true digital detox experience.
Preparing for the Hike: Additional Resources
If you’re looking for more hiking recommendations in the area, I highly recommend picking up Falcon Guides’ Hiking the Black Hills Country. I personally own both this book and the Hiking South Dakota edition. While both are great, the key difference is in their regional focus.
The Hiking South Dakota guide includes trails from across the entire state. This makes it a useful resource if you’re a local or plan to explore beyond the Black Hills—like I do, living in Sioux Falls. However, if you’re primarily visiting the western part of the state, two thirds of the hikes in that book won’t be relevant to your trip.
That’s where Hiking the Black Hills Country really shines. It covers a concentrated and practical selection of trails not only in South Dakota’s Black Hills, but also nearby areas in Wyoming, such as Sundance and Devils Tower National Monument. It features a broader range of hikes across key sites including Badlands National Park, Jewel Cave National Monument, Wind Cave National Park, Custer State Park, and the Black Elk Wilderness.
For an all around regional travel book I would recommend Fodor’s The Black Hills of South Dakota: with Mount Rushmore and Badlands National Park. Which is a great resource for all things in the region.
Happy Trekking!
-Aurora
