A one hour drive from Daegu, sits Gaysasan National park (가야산국립공원) on the boarder of Seongugun (성주군) and Hapcheon (합천). This national park is composed of two distinct halves, and in the middle lies a small town and the famous Haeinsan Temple (해인사). The valley town has a selection of quality restaurants specializing in various mountain vegetables as well as a riverside walking trail/boardwalk (소리길) that stretches 6km down the valley.
My friend and I truly made a full day out of exploring this national park. But we could have spent a whole weekend here, plenty to see and do.
The 10km Hike
There are two mountains to hike in this national Park – Gasaysan and Namsanjeilbong (남산제일봉). Most people can’t really do them both in the same day because of the time constraints – with the starting point only open from 4/5am to 1/2pm. It is possible as there are starting points near each other, but the dual hike would likely require an overnight the previous night near the mountain to get an early enough start.
We started around 8am and opted for the loop hike otherwise known as the Manmulsang Course (만물상 코스) and then the additional 1.3km to reach the summit. This hike starts/ends at the Baegundong Information Center’s (백운동탐방지원센터) parking lot. It’s worth noting that that each half of the hike has a different level of difficulty, though they are roughly the same length. The valley (right side), is considered medium difficult and while the left half in ranked advanced and expert. Its most popular to travel counter-clockwise but the information maps display it in the opposite direction.
Although we intended on doing the loop hike like an actual loop, while we were at the peak it began to rain. With the ground becoming slippery we decided it was safer to just go down the way we came (doubling back on the valley side) rather than trying the more advanced trail in the rain.
The valley trail is a combination of all the well maintained trails of Korea. With large but flat rocks, both average stairs and long flat stairs and the thick mat covering. I got some serious Jirisan flashbacks on this hike. Overall, it’s a very green chill hike that follows a stream the whole way. We crossed the water a couple times, which was flowing more than average due to the recent heavy rain. We traveled through forest and bamboo like groves.
After 2.6km, we came to the meeting point of the two loop halves called Seoseongjae (서성재). If you had taken the other direction (more advanced trail) its 3.0km to reach this point. It’s a wide area with a couple seats – people were gathered relaxing and gearing up for the climb ahead. There are two peaks that are only 0.2km from each other, so there is a significant diversity of views to look forward to.
To reach the first peak Chilbulbong (칠불봉, 1,433m) it’s a 1.3km climb from the loop meeting point. It’s considered medium in difficulty. This section of the trail isn’t technically difficult but due to the increase in steepness and its numerous steep staircases; it’s not an easy 1.3km. Additionally, sections of this trail are a bit narrow – especially the stairs which are the type that if you fall there is no catching yourself and it will result in a serious injury. So please be careful.
While the particular views are different, the upper peak area reminded me of Ulsanbawi in Seoraksan National Park. There are a lot of places to walk around to take in different views. Don’t forget to look back while climbing the stairs, the views here can’t be easily forgotten. From both peaks the other is visible, which makes for some fun photos.
It was a cloudy day, so the beginning of the hike was a white hazy but as the day progressed the light consistent covering was replaced by thicker clouds rolling over the mountains.
After taking objectively far too much time at the first summit taking photos and eating snacks. We traveled the 200 meters to the next peak, Sangwangbong (상왕봉, 1,430M).
On Sangwangbong peak there is a name rock and a large flat area perfect for lunch. But the must go spot is actually behind the name rock, there is a little path that leads behind the larger rock (I’m standing on in the top right photo) and up a small path where you can take an incredible photo. If the photographer sits on the large rock you can take the bottom two photos.
An older man actually took this photo of me and my friend in secret and then offered to send it to us, which was nice of him.
It was here that the rain started so we just went back the way we came.
With the same starting and ending point, there are a number of facilities that someone could take advantage of. There was a small mart, a well maintained public toilet, a folk museum and a Wild Flower Conservatory. We actually had intended on seeing these flowers in the conservatory. But on this hike we saw more wildflowers than I’ve ever seen on a hike – in terms of diversity. They were mostly in the higher elevation areas and while they weren’t density clumped or sweeping across a valley, their constant presence was lovely to see.
The Feast
After the hike we got back into the car and drove to the Haeinsa area. Here there are number of restaurants. Many of them specialize in Mountain Vegetable Bibimbap (산체비빔밥), the root Dodokguie (더덕구이), various mushroom dishes and Dongdongju (동동주) a makgeolli like drink.
We ordered the first thing on the menu – which is the largest bibimbap option. It came with a fish for each of us, a pumpkin pancake, the Dodokguie with mushrooms, acorn jelly, a mushroom eggplant dish and rice bowls.
With all the side dishes (which are free to refill) you are meant to create your own mountain veggie bibimbap or rice salad as the name suggests.
Some of the side dishes were interesting looking. In the photo: It’s not a bug but a pickled root vegetable.
Everything was very delicious, I ate more than I needed to that day. Worth the 18,000원 per person price tag.
If you think you might struggle deciding what to order, you need not worry – not only is the menu in English but on the wall there are large photos of what is included in each of the sets.
In addition to our meal, we ordered a half order of Dongdongju alcohol. Apparently the serving size is for 4 people, which is why its 8,000원. If you ask for “ban/반” you get a normal amount. This drink is similar to makgeolli in taste but without the soda like fizz, also there are little red berries inside.
In order to enter the Haeinsa Temple or the restaurant area there is an admission fee of 3,000원 per person plus a 4,000원 parking fee. We found it a bit strange to be paying as we entered the area but we were going to the temple anyways so we didn’t mind paying it earlier than expected. The public transportation I believe drops you off within this area so I’m unsure about the status of if you need to pay under those circumstances.
The Temple and Coffee
The Haeinsa Temple is a world heritage site, composed of numerous temples spread out across a large complex. The history of the place is interesting as it currently houses thousands of ancient books. If you care to learn the details you can check out the UNESCO site or the Korean government site. In addition, doing a two day or 4-5 day temple stay here is also possible.
“During the Joseon Dynasty, a great set of sutra tablets from the Goryeo Dynasty were enshrined at Haeinsa, which is why the temple is known as the “Dharma Treasure Temple.” Since the number of wood blocks in this collection of sutra tablets totals 81,258, the entire set is known as the “Eighty Thousand Tripitaka Sutra” collection in Korean, but is often called simply the “Tripitaka Koreana” in English.” – Taken from the official Temple stay website
Below are photos of the books and the ancient temple grounds.
My favorite part of temples like this are the traditional wall paintings.
Also located on the temple’s ground is an adorable cafe made from an old temple building, which we stopped at to enjoy a cappuccino. Its equal parts cafe and gift shop, but not the cheesy type. I actually tried on and bought a handmade dress here – and I’m not normally the type to do such things.
Aurora’s Advice
A. Go with another person – Although I am normally a solo hiker having done most of my hikes alone. This is a weekend trip that in order to enjoy the food you need a second person as there is a serving minimum of 2 people on the best options. On the mountain itself some of the best photo spots are a bit complicated and you won’t be able to take it with a tripod and clicker.
B. Its probably better to spend the whole weekend here than just one day – I would have loved to have done the other hike/a sunrise hike and explore one of the many museums here. I think. this is. especially true if you are taking public transport. We had a car so we had more freedom but if you need to rely on public means the extra time I think is very critical.
C. Bring a set of spare clothes – due to the diversity of activities that are available to you, you might want to bring something to change into so you don’t need to stay in your sweaty and smelly hiking outfit in the temple and nice cafes.
D. Bug spray – Although bugs like moving water less than stagnant water, you will be next to a stream/river or in the mountain valley for whole day. Better safe than sorry.
E. Wear something a little colorful – Your background for most photos will be blue or grayish as opposed to green. You don’t need to wear neon orange like me but a lighter color will make you pop in the photos.
Tnx so much for your excellent blog! Been getting a lot of inspiration from it, like last week Suraksan, Odaesan, and Seoraksan, yesterday hiking Woraksan (from Deokju, with the 2 hr walk back to Songgye – at least as was prepared!), tomorrow Songnisan, Tuesday Gayasan, well… you get the point. 😁 Plenty more to come after that as well!
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