Trekking through Saryang-do Island (사량도): Discovering an Island Paradise

The ridge hike on Saryang-do Island (사량도) might be the most underrated hike in all of South Korea. It’s not in a national park, and the foreigner hiking groups tend not to go here too often. But it remains my favorite coastal hike

Located a short ferry ride from the seaside city of Tongyeong (통영시), Saryang-do island is famous for its 360° ocean views. Ocean views that start after just a couple hundred meters of trekking.

Overview

The hike roughly takes 4-6 hours depending on your fitness and photo taking obsession. It can be reached from Tongyeong city by riding buses 670, 672 or 207 (bus # and distance depends on your location in Tongyeong), to the Saryang-do Yogaekson Terminal (시량도여객선터미널), from there you go by ferry to Saryang-do. The island is famous exclusively for its ridge hike, so if at any point you are confused, everyone there is doing what you are trying to do (don’t be afraid to ask for help or to just follow big groups).

Suggestions ~ Bring gloves as there is both a section that requires climbing a slight rock wall as well as metal ropes. The weather on the islands in this area is know to be a bit unpredictable so bringing some rain wear would be a safe bet. But don’t worry too much about packing supplies, as there is a CU on the island right outside the ferry’s exit.

My Experience

At 7am I caught the first ferry from Saryang-do Yogaekson Terminal (시량도여객선터미널). The only way to get to Sayrang-do is by this ferry terminal so I was pleasantly surprised to discover that the tickets were very affordable. For only 6,000원 for adults and standard bus prices on the island, you can have an amazing day hiking!

The ferry ride was spent surrounded by a dozen of Korean hiking groups composed of men and women in their 50s and 60s decked out in the famously colorful hiking gear. The floor was heated, a nice escape from the slight chill in the early morning air in late March. Outside the cramped room, people sat on metal picnic style tables having spicy ramen and hot chocolate, which are available for purchase on the ferry.

Upon arrival, we were immediately greeted by a CU, which supplied me with my necessary coffee for the day. I was also told by some helpful fellow hikers that I would need gloves as the metal ropes at the top could hurt my hands if I slip, for 2,500원 I was able to snag some ugly gloves (I would suggest bringing your own). We then caught the bus #670 (there is only one bus on the island) to the start of the hiking trail. I would suggest starting on the far side of the island and ending at the terminal, it is the safest method to make sure you don’t miss the last ferry, which departs the island at 17:50. Additionally, this direction is the most popular way of doing the hike as it also saves the most interesting parts for the ends.

At 8:30am I started what would be one of the most beautiful hikes I’ve ever experienced in Korea.

The trail begins along local farm land and then gradually increases in slope. The banners from dozens of hiking groups color the trail, as they wave in the wind.

The map estimates that it takes 1 hour and 30 minutes to reach the Jirisan Peak (지리산) at 398m, though I managed it in 45 minutes.

After summiting, there is another 2 1/2 hours of ridge hiking. Along the ridge are beautiful ocean views, Bulmosan (불모산) at 399m, a rather terrifying staircase for people scared of heights (me) and a picturesque suspension bridge. After the bridge, is a 30 minutes descent into the town where makgeolli and seafood pancakes await.

After going on so many in South Korea, I think I understand the formula. The farther away from the Seoul the nicer but crazier the hikers become. As I was taking a rest, I saw a man begin to free climb down the side of the mountain. I had to take a photo. When he caught up to me, he was very excited about the photo and I was adopted into their hiking group. A ridiculous but enjoyable turn of events in my adventure.

The trail tried to give me a heart attack.

My legs started to experience physical pain when I was looking down this staircase. I can’t explain it or replicate it without the fear, but I certainly felt it a couple times on this hike. Don’t get me wrong it’s not a particularly dangerous hike nor is it as terrifying as other hikes (I’m talking about you Dinosaur ridge in Seoraksan). But the hike’s drop offs kept me from getting bored, that’s for sure.

Saving the best for last

By far the best part of the hike was the last hour as you come to the view of the bridge (사량대교) connecting Saryang-do to the neighboring island, Areatseom, and the thankfully sturdy looking suspension bridge.

I was able to catch the ferry back to the terminal, from there I went back into town where I spent the rest of my weekend enjoying Tongyeong’s famous oyster dishes and more gorgeous views from the cable car.

Suggested Weekend Itinerary

Although Tongyeong seems like a out of the way location on the map, it’s actually a famous destination for Korean tourists, which means getting there isn’t as difficult as you might think. There are direct buses to the Tongyeong Bus Terminal from many major cities including Seoul.

I would suggest making the journey on Friday night and booking Tongyeong accommodation for Friday and Saturday night. Embarking Saturday early morning for the Saryang-do hike and leaving Sunday for Tongyeong exploration. There is much to see in this seaside city and I’ll dive deeply into the city in another post.

Additionally, you can book accommodation on the island. Next to Saryang-do is Areatseom Island, which are connected by a bridge. The ridge hike actually continues onto the second island, as can be seen in the map I’ve included above. I’ve personally never have attempted the second half, as the first half is known to be more famous and picturesque. If you are really passionate about hiking or have no interest in seeing Tongyeong; then doing the whole hike may be a good option to explore. I’m unsure if it’s possible for average ability/slower hikers to complete both sections in one day as the last ferry departs the island at 17:50. With the earliest start time for the hike being 8:20am due to the ferry’s mainland departure time.

Wishing Everyone a Happy Trekking!