When planning a weekend getaway to Seoraksan National Park, there are no shortage of routes to take. Hikes can range from short strolls on a flat path to all day demanding climbs.
In October 2019, I did perhaps to most difficult option for hikers. I climbed Daecheongbong Peak, the tallest peak in Seoraksan, and completed Dinosaur ridge ending at the Seoraksan main gate.
Dinosaur Ridge can either be completed as a loop from the main entrance or before/after the Daecheongbong Peak. This hike is either an all day event starting before dawn or split up among two days, with a night spent in a shelter in the national park.
This hiking experience was unlike any that I had experienced before. While I am no stranger to hikes that start at 3am, I was not expecting the crowd. Joining me was nine large buses full of older Korean men and women ready to climb to the summit.
Korean’s love to hike and the Osaek Entrance is where to start if you want to hike with a huge group of strangers. For near empty trails, I’d recommend the main entrance as a starting point.
I was smack in the middle of the mob when the national park opened its gate and we all poured into the park. It was chaos, extremely slow moving chaos. For the first 15 minutes it was bumper to bumper, but as the trail began to get steeper people were able to pass one another and go at their own pace.
The trek up is demanding, but doable. I consider myself to be an efficient and stronger hiker. I was able to summit 5th among all the hikers and my time of 2 hours 17 minutes made me the all time female record holder on Strava.
According to the Korea National Park Service the ascent takes an average of 4 hours.
It is quite grueling. The trail starts with a low incline, then switches to a steeper random rock pathway, flatting out, then transition to a steep rocky pathways split up by stairs. The last kilometer of the hike I found to be the easiest as you enter into the clouds as the trail begins to flatten out a bit as the landscapes shifts from trees to shrubbery and tall grasses.
Don’t expect too much from Daecheongbong, chances are high that there isn’t going to be a view from the top.
Daecheongbong towers at 1708m, so there is a pretty big chance you are going to be in the clouds. Plenty of people see the view and it’s probably true if you wait around the cloud will probably part. But how long do you want to wait? Personally, since I summited at 5:17am in the clouds, I would have had to wait hours for the sun to rise and the clouds to finally part. Instead I just got my snap shot with the famous “대청봉 1708m” stone and headed off for coffee at the shelter.
If the Daecheongbong view is important to you, I have three recommendations. 1) Pick a super clear day. Chances are if the weather says partly cloudy the clouds are going to hang around the peaks and running the view. 2) Reserve a shelter and make it a two day adventure. The last thing you want to be doing on your vacation is stressing about time. 3) Time your summit to be closer to noon, sunrise on the peak is more likely to have clouds as the air is cooler, summiting later means it’s less unlikely to be cloudy.
How to Reserve a Shelter: Reserving a shelter can’t be easier, it’s all in English. Just make an account, pick yours dates and the mountain and the website shows you all the available shelters, complete with descriptions, locations and photos! Best of all, its no money down so there is no Korean bank account issue. Just bring cash and your proof of reservation. Peak season costs 13,000원 per person, while off season is 12,000원. All shelters sell a variety of goods ranging from coffee in a can (very important), water, chocolate bars and ramen etc. But most shelters don’t offer any cooking facilities so be wary of this while packing.
If you want to be centrally located in the park, you can’t beat Huiungak Shelter (희운각대피소)
If you are arriving later in the day and want a short hike before resting, I’d recommend Yangpok Shelter (양폭대피소)
After Daecheongbong Peak, a 10 minute walk brings you to the shelter, where there are bathroom and limited supplies for sale. Shelter shops have hours, so its possible if you are summiting the mountain early that the shop will not yet be open.
Following the Daecheongbong shelter is a decent down to the Huiungak Shelter. This is where I took all my favorite shots. I choose to make my sunrise on this part of the hike instead of at the summit. Personally I find the view to be much more beautiful, and almost painting like.
After a break at Huiungak Shelter I started to hike Dinosaur Ridge (공룡능선). Dinosaur ridge got its name from the similarities between the jagged steep rocks that can be seen from the hike to a dinosaurs back. The trail is most definitely difficult. I personally don’t like to hike with poles, as they make holding my camera more difficult, but I would recommend using poles. In addition to demanding changes in elevation, there are numerous sections that require holding on/pulling yourself over rock walls using metal ropes. I would highly recommend bringing gloves, they are a must have.
Luckily, the best view point of Dinosaur Ridge is only a short while after the shelter.
Its the perfect lunch spot
As the hike continued, I was walking through rusty brown, bright yellow and warm orange leaves. Evergreen trees speckled the landscape adding green accents to the striking cliff faces.
As beautiful as the hike appears it’s equally as demanding.
But it was worth it.
The hike seems to go on forever, but during fall time I wasn’t really complaining. After you reach the peak it’s mostly a descent, and once you reach the turn off point, its completely a descent with a mix between stairs and random rock pathways. But be wary, this will be the most demanding part of the hike, especially the last 1.2k before reaching the Biseondae (비선대). The incline is 45.8% which means your knees and legs are going to take a beating.
Luckily there is a nice view to distract you from the pain.
After reaching the bottom you have about a 45 minute stroll to the main entrance. The main entrance has a number of slightly over priced places to eat, but sitting down for a bottle of Makgeolli is a must do. There are a number of local favors and brands worth trying, and after all that hiking you definitely will deserve it!
Right before the exit of the park is a can’t miss photo spot
Insider tip; the first bathroom after finishing the leg killing descent is always crazy for women but near the temple about 25 minutes away are multiple bathrooms which are less likely to have lines. So, I’d wait if possible.
*Dinosaur Ridge is not for inexperienced hikers nor is it for people who aren’t confident about their hiking ability. There are numerous hikes in the national park which are also rewarding, without the 12+ commitment*
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Accommodations: Staying in Sokcho
To do this trip right, I would recommend staying in Sokcho the previous night and then taking a taxi or the first bus to Seoraksan National Park (it’s only 20-30 minutes away). This method allows you to combine a mountain adventure with a beach getaway.
My deal trip for Sokcho is a Friday night arrival, Saturday hike with a great dinner on the beach and a Sunday return to Seoul. It allows you to relax after hiking, and not then immediately jump into the 3-5 trip back to Seoul.
There are a number of cheap options that are friendly to English speakers. I’ve stayed with Blue Door Hostel, a cheap hostel by the beach. But if you are looking for something a little more comfortable I would recommend the beachside Ramada – letting you relax out of the beach after your post-hike shower!
For the most convenience, I would recommendation staying in a location with easy access to the park, either at the Kensington Hotel or the less expensive Smile Resort. Both of these options let you walk to and from the park, saving you from the hectic taxi rides.
Happy Trekking!
-Aurora
How did the course distance/time compare from Oseak-Daecheongbong versus the loop from the main entrance?