This isn’t an easy adventure, but I promise you it’s worth it. You can’t do Ulleungdo in a day, and you probably will want more than a weekend here. I spent 4 days and 3 nights on Ulleungdo during the Chuseok Holiday week of 2019 and it’s one of my most memorable trips in Korea.
My guide includes information about how to get to and from Ulleungdo, the various neighborhoods, the top 4 best activities and the top 3 to avoid with insider tips throughout!
Getting to Ulleungdo
Ulleungdo can only be reached by boat, and it’s a three hour ferry ride from Gangneung-si. From the Gangneung Terminal, there are two ferries; a Sea Star 5 with a carrying capacity of 438 people and a Sea Star 11 carrying 447. Both ferries are the same price and owned by the same company but are considered separate on the schedule.
How to Reserve a ticket:
You can purchase a ferry ticket in person or through the Official website. Tickets are 61,000원 for one way for general admission adults. Children under 12 have a 50% off discount and adults over 65 have a discount of 20%.
Ferry Schedule:
Everyday there are two or three ferry departure times from Gangneung. The schedule is not set, which means each day and month it’s different. While each ferry have frequently consistent departure times, there is still a great variability in the schedule. You can not assume departure times, checking is necessary.
The Ferry Ride and Seasickness
For people prone to sea sickness, it can be a nightmare of a ride. At the ferry terminal and the closest CU you can buy bottles of liquid seasickness medicine for 1,000원 per small bottle. It’s recommended to drink one bottle 1 hour before the ferry departs. Ive very prone to seasickness, so I drank two at 1 hour and then again at 30 minutes before the ferry’s departure and it was a best 2,000원 I’ve ever spent.
With head phones in my ears, I spent the next three hours with my head on a tray table and eyes closed. But seasickness free! Thank goodness.
After 15 minutes I heard the first person vomiting into the provided seasickness bags. By the end of the trip, I’d estimate 25% of the people on the boat had thrown up. In fact the whole Korean family sitting next to me (from grandparents to grandchildren) had gotten sick.
It isn’t a pretty sight but the weather was fairly mild and this still happened. The weather could be great but it’s a long ferry ride and just because the weather is great on the coast doesn’t mean there won’t be big waves on the open ocean an hour later.
Even if you don’t normally get seasick it’s honestly a dumb decision to not take the medicine. As numerous of my traveling buddies got sick as well as. strangers sitting around me.
I’d also recommend not eating before the ferry. Gangneung-si has a lot of great seafood restaurants but I’d rather be hungry than to have something to throw up. Sorry it’s a bit graphic but it’s something important to consider and could really ruin your day.
Additionally, the bathroom is located in the very back of the boat and there aren’t handle rails on the boat, which means walking to the bathroom is dangerous. It will require grabbing people’s head rests and slowly making progress.
After about a hour and a half on the boat. I was suddenly woken up. It took me a second to realize what had happened. An older man had been walking to the bathroom and literally fell onto and off of my lap to the floor as the ferry had hit a big wave. We were both okay, but it was a reminder to go slowly and to not be afraid to hold onto people’s headrests for both your own safety and the safety of those around you.
The ferry is completely closed in, so unlike some other ferries in South Korea you can’t go outside for fresh air. Your best option for dealing with the beginning stages of seasickness is to walk to the front of the ferry where there are big windows to look out to see the horizon line
Also in the back of the ferry is a food stand. I’ve got mad respect for anyone who can eat on this ride, but if you have an iron stomach there are snack options for you. There’s nothing particularly filling for sale, but if you are a bit hungry there is a place to buy a snack or water.
Getting around the Island by Bus
The bus system is very easy to navigate. All buses ending in the number 1 are going clockwise and those ending in 2 are going counter clockwise
Accommodation and Neighborhoods
Before I made my trip, I had been scared by other reviews that there aren’t a lot of options of places to stay. The truth is that there are plenty of pensions and hotels/motels. The problem is that there aren’t any inexpensive solo options and it isn’t a super easy place to travel if you don’t know Korean. Honestly even just a Korean friend to call and make a reservation will remove 50% of your stress if your Korean level isn’t that high.
The Gangneung departing ferry arrives at the Jeodong Sea Port. From there, you can find accommodation in Jeodong, the neighboring town of Dodong or on the opposite side of the island in Chusan.
This is also the part of the island where all the photos of drying squid have been taken. Additionally, there are a dozen or so ladies running stands outside the Jeodong Terminal that sell the dried squid for reasonable prices. I personally didn’t partake, as my time spent in Jeodong was either directly after or before the ferry ride. There is a small area in Dodong that also has squid drying and for sale.
The most famous fresh seafood restaurant in Ulleungdo and the cafe selling ‘Squid Ink Ice cream’ are some of the highlights.
Staying in Dodong
Dodong can be reached by a 10 minute bus ride from the Jeodong port. I personally stayed in this neighborhood during my time in Ulleungdo and I was very happy with that decision. This town is most famous for the the seaside pathway featured heavily in many people’s travel videos.
Booking.comThe pathway is a cement with metal railing trail that hugs the cliffs lining the coast. The trail is lit up at night and is accessible 24 hours. At the end of the coastal trail is another 500 meters of wooded trail to a light house.
Insider tip: there is no sunrise view from the trail or at the light house. You need to get off the trail and sit on a cliff in order to get a view.
The restaurant/relaxing spot with the best atmosphere for having fun with friends is located on the trail. The restaurant specializes in Sashimi and squid pancakes. They sell beer, soju and the famous Ulleungdo Pumpkin Makgeolli (a must try while in Ulleungdo).
Staying in Chusan
located a 30 minute bus ride from the Jeodong port is the seaside town of Chusan. Chusan is famous for its beautiful sunset and more isolated feeling. Additionally, it is the only location on this list that has direct beach access. Both Dodong and Jeodong require a bus or a long walk to find a place to swim.
Chusan is located at the entrance to the Nara Valley. The valley has a small outside museum displaying traditional dewellings and has a couple traditional restaurants specializing in rice dishes. Though the valley is most frequented for its start/end point to the trail leading up to Seonginbong peak (987m).
Ranked Actitivies on Ulleungdo
1. Hiking Seonginbong
Hiking the main mountain isn’t a particularly long trip in terms of distance but it’s quite demanding. If you choose to start from Nara Valley then you have what feels like 1000 stairs standing between you and the summit. It’s stairs, stairs and more stairs.
We started the hike at 11am and we were summiting at 1:20pm. But my hiking partner and I had a rather intense hiking pace throughout. The rest of the group who hiked more reasonably summited 30 minutes later. So I’d say it would take an average hiker 3 hours to reach the summit.
Half way up is a beautiful view but it’s one of your only until you reach the top. The view from the top isn’t obvious. Behind the ‘summit name and height’ stone is a little path which a 10m walk will bring you to an amazing view.
Even though the peak is only 987m, it is often covered in clouds so timing the hike with the clearest day would be ideal.
The path down splits between three trails, with one ending in Jeodong and another ending in Dodong. A very convenient end to the hike.
The path down to Dodong is a normal korean hike with a mix of stairs and rocks. It took us about 2:30 hours to be back in our hotel after the summit. Our slowness was mostly because once you reach the temple (labeled 대원사 on kakao maps) it’s a brutally steep cement road that you have to practically walk sideways down to not destroy your knees.
Although you could start in either town and end in the Nara Valley, I think it’s less stressful to arrive immediately home after a hike then to have to figure out the buses and then to ride the bus for 30+ minutes when you are exhausted. It’s important to note that there is a separate bus that runs from Chusan to Nara and back, so you have to transfer in order to get back to your accommodation if you are staying in Dodong or Jeodong.
2. Exploring Gwangeumdo Island
The island can be reached by bus and for a small fee of about 5,000원 per person, you can take the elevator up to the main platform before the bridge. Following the bridge that connects Ulleungdo to this small island is a short climb up stairs. After the climb is a circular route around the island with multiple view points.
This activity is not strenuous and once you are on the island, it is a very easy course to navigate without any real difficulty. It’s a perfect relaxing activity as a romantic spot or just a place to take pretty pictures.
Insider tip: truck cafes are the perfect 2nd cup of coffee stop while on the go!
Likely you will have to wait a little while for one of the buses to arrive after you finish exploring this island. Frequently parked near the bus stop are little cafes run from vehicles. They sell a variety of beverages and a couple snacks. One of the trucks sell a local homemade slushy which was very delicious. Theses vehicles are scattered throughout the island and only accept cash. They act as a great replacement for the lack of numerous cafes on the island. Don’t worry Dodong has one cafe by the water that opens at 7am and Jeodong has a couple so the first cup of coffee won’t be a problem!
3. Riding the Cable Car to the Dokdo Observatory
Located in Dodong, the cable car can be easy seen and reached by foot. At the base of the complex is a beautiful temple that the cable car goes right over. As you continue up the hill you will pass a number of venders selling cider goods and Dokdo themed shirts, bandanas and other various items. Continuing up the hill is the Dokdo Museum, which is most definitely worth walking through. There are numerous English signs, making it very foreigner friendly.
Insider tip; get up the cable car as soon as possible 9am-10am is boarding on too late. The lines get crazy! The cable car can only carry about 10-15 people and it’s a convenient attraction to get to so many people will be there in the mid morning time. Beat the traffic by going first to the observatory and then to the Dokdo Museum.
The observatory has two main areas. The first has a replica of Dokdo island with look out binoculars to see the island. The next is about 30 meters away and up stairs on the left. That’s where you will get the best photos and with the cutest Dokdo sign!
Insider Tip: Got an extra 20-30 minutes? Go down the stairs and after a 10ish minute mini trek you will arrive at an isolated lookout point that hardly anyone goes to anymore. It’s a bit of a nature adventure but it was worth it. Only a handful of people were in some process of being on the trail, which is remarkable compared to how packed the observatory and second lookout point were.
4. The Underwater Aquarium View
The Cheonbu Observatory is a small building connected to the beach by a short walking bridge. Once in the building you walk down about 2 stories of stairs. You arrive in a circular room completely surrounded by windows looking into the water. Hundreds of wild fish are swimming around. They have set up small barely noticeable feeding packets to attract them to this area. There are interesting materials put on the sea floor to attract other wildlife and remote ecosystem growth. It’s a couple thousand won to enter and it’s worth it. It’s a unique and beautiful experience. If the weather is cold or you don’t enjoy swimming, you can still take in the views as if you are snorkeling yourself.
Other highlights (foods)
Haehorang (해호랑) and Oggidongyi (오기동이)
Pumpkins and Squid. These are the two things that the island is known for and do they ever lean into them to boost tourism.
1. Pumpkin/호박
The pumpkin favored Makgeolli was a must try for me. It’s not super different; the pumpkin is there but not over powering. I’m a makeolli lover so there was no way I wasn’t partaking. You also have pumpkin taffy, jelly candies and jam.
2. Squid/오징어
Aside from actual squid in both freshly particularly dried and completely dried condition, there is an assortment of weird products to try. There were two that stood out to me. Squid ink ice cream, which can be found and purchased in Jeodong and Squid ink colored bread purchased in Dodong.
The bread shop named 오브레 should not be missed. Even if you aren’t interested in purchasing the bread, it has the best souvenirs (all Dokdo themed) on the island. If you are an English teacher or student, the 20 set of bread for 12,000원 is the perfect gift to walk around with and hand out to people. The bread is shaped like little adorable black squids and has a wow/unique factor with its origin and ingredients. It’s also no bad tasting either.
3. Korean Mussels/홍합
One of the more well known restaurants on the island specializes in rices dishes that have various mussels mixed in the rice. The restaurant Daesikdang/대식당 stands out for its numerous positive reviews and always busy status. I went there and the food lives up to the hype. Fantastic post hike or busy day dinner.
Activities and things to avoid!
1. Any other hiking trials
The island advertises on their numerous signs about all the hiking trails on the island. Well I tried them all so you don’t have to make the same mistakes.
No one has hiked the Taeharyeong trail in a long time and there is nothing to see.
– me
The trail is over grown, there is no view and it requires you to walk down an adandoned road trip which is now under construction. Waste of time.
I was more optimistic about the Bocheon trail to the north east. Our tour leader, who doesn’t specialize in Ulleungdo tours but just general korea tours, even told us to do this hike if we really needed to hike more. Well the map lies, it’s a two segmented trail not connected. But that doesn’t matter because once you finish the first section and it drops you off on the road, the second section will not be found. I went looking for it and a nice but confused korean farmer kindly explained to me that the Bocheon trail was so overgrown that the weeds were higher than our heads. The trail had once been very popular but hadn’t been hiked on for years. From the conversation the farmer and I concluded that the maps were very outdated and were a lie.
There are only three trails worth your time on the island, Seonginbong (987m), the coastal cement trail in Dodong and the loop on Gwangeumdo island.
2. Trip to Dokdo
This one is a little controversial because some people write positive reviews about the experience and really love it. You came all the way to Ulleungdo, how do you not go to Dokdo!
Going to Dokdo is not worth the risk or the price.
There are two risks well considering this trip. First, if the waves are at all intense you aren’t getting off the boat. After the hour or so it took you getting there on the ferry you get to only look at the island if the seas are determined to be too rough. Second, this is the sea’s second attempt to try to defeat you with seasickness.
Then consider the price and time. These tours tend to run around 60,000원 per person.
What you are getting for that money is a round trip ferry ride to a rock. A rock you can’t explore.
There is a small section of paved cement with a korean flag for you to take a picture with but you can’t go forward. Oh and you have about 20 minutes there max. This means you are spending 3-4hrs and 60,000원 for a photo opportunity Nor will going to Dokdo make what you learned in the museum more insightful. I could think of better things to do with my 4hrs.
But if I haven’t convinced you. The same company that runs the ferries to and from Gangneung also has a ferry for Dokdo. You can by tickets in person or on their official Official website.
Don’t get me wrong, I’m totally a fan of Dokdo and the energetic nationalism about it. Check out the museum and buy a cute ‘사랑해 독도’ shirt (I did). I’m just not a gambler.
3. Pumpkin ‘factory’ visit
So the islands informational booklets slightly mislabel this place. They make it seem like you will be able to see pumpkins being turned into the various tasty sweets that are sold throughout the island. What you actually get is a big shop that exclusively sells in multiple stands of the same 4 products, the pumpkin favored snacks you can buy anywhere for maybe 1,000원 less. They do give you free samples so I guess that was nice. Also, outside there are a lot of small pumpkins stacked up so maybe that’s a cute photo moment. But I wouldn’t really call this a factory experience.
I wouldn’t get off the bus to see this place, the bus doesn’t come often enough to be worth it. It’s also in no way conveniently located to your accommodation.
Hope you enjoyed my guide to Ulleungdo, let me know how your experience was on the island and if you have any other advice for your fellow readers
Keep up to date with by adventures by following me at @adventurous.aurora
